In Rome, we’re doing as the Romans do, and competing to see who can drink espresso the fastest. There are actually two races: who can drink an individual cup the fastest, and also who can drink the most cups in a day. The game ends when your head is spinning so much that you can’t walk straight towards the next cafe, and can barely summon the brainpower to ask, dov’e il bagno? Unrelatedly, there are craploads of vespas and motorcycles and scooters and supertiny cars here, but very few bikes in the streets. We’re starting a hunt for a) a used bike (since I left my Pinarello in DC) and b) the closest bike builder, just so we can go drool at the perfect Italian engineering.